Maneki Neko  


Resources on Japanese Costuming, Textiles, and More!

This list got so long, I had to divide it into topics. Some entries are annotated. If something isn’t annotated, that isn’t a criticism. Most of these resources are in my personal collection so that means I like them and would buy them again. This is probably the last time this will be updated on the website, but I will continue to update on the blog

I shouldn’t have to say this, but this is MY bibliography, the result of many hours of work and research. Please feel free to link to it, cite it, whatever, just please don’t claim it as yours!


Allert, Kathy Japanese Girl and Boy paper dolls. Dover, 1991.
Too cute. Children in various traditional costumes.

Brown, Kendall and Sharon Minichiello. Taisho Chic: Japanese Modernity, Nostalgia, and Deco. Honolulu Academy of Arts, 2002.
Gorgeous exhibit.

Coloring Book of Japan. Santa Barbara: Bellerophon Books, c1971.

Dalby, Liza Crihfield. Kimono: Fashioning Culture. Yale Univ.Press, 1993. The development of the kimono. Current use and social implications.
Good coverage on Heian period costume and Tokugawa through modern period. Unfortunately, the shogunate period ca. 1100-1600 is not addressed.

Dreams of Empire: Japanese Propaganda Textiles.
Exhibition catalogue. MHJ Collection, 2011.
From an exhibit at the San Francisco Arts of Pacific Asia Show, Feb. 2011.

Five Centuries of Japanese Kimono: On This Sleeve of Fondest Dreams. Michael Sittenfeld, ed. Art Institute of Chicago, 1992. (Museum Studies vol. 18; no.1)
Includes 2 essays on Noh costume.

Four Centuries of Fashion: Classical Kimono from the Kyoto National Museum. Asian Art Museum of San Francisco, 1997.
Exhibit catalogue for Feb.5-Mar 23, 1997.

Fukai, Akiko, and Jun Kanai. Japonism In Fashion. Kyoto, Japan: Kyoto Costume Institute, 1996.
Exhibition Catalog. Depicts influence of Japanese design on European couture fashion, mostly early 20th century. Text in Japanese, but copious wonderful illustrations.
Essay in English by the author at: Japonism in Fashion

Gluckman, Dale C. and Sharon Sadako Takeda. When Art Became Fashion: Kosode in Edo-period Japan. L.A. County Museum of Art, 1992.

Green, John. Life In Old Japan coloring book. Dover, 1994.
Black and white drawings, probably based on paintings and prints from the Edo period (ca 1600-1857)

Hayao, Ishimura. Robes of Elegance: Japanese Kimonos of the 16th-20th Centuries. North Carolina Museum of Art, 1988.

Hays, Mary and Ralph. Fukusa: the Shojiro Nomura Fukusa Collection. Mills College Art Gallery, 1983. ex. cat.
Fukusa are special cloths wrappings for gifts.

Horn, Diane Victoria. Japanese Kimono Designs. Stemmer House, 1991. (International Design Library)
Large black and white illustrations, almost a coloring book. Emphasis on historical costume. 44 p.

Hutt, Julia and Helene Alexander. Ogi: a History of the Japanese Fan. London: Dauphin, 1992.

Itchiku Tsujigahana: Landscape Kimonos by Itchiku Kubota. National Museum of Natural History, 1995.

Japonism in Fashion. “An ongoing research project on Japonisme in women's Western fashion”

Kennedy, Alan. Japanese Costume: History and Tradition. Greenwich Editions, 1990.
Historic Kimonos, Noh Costumes, Kesa.

The Kimono Inspiration: Art and Art-to-Wear in America. Rebecca Stevens and Yoshiko Wada, ed. Washington DC: The Textile Museum ; San Francisco: Pomegranate, 1996.
Discusses the influence of the Kimono on American painters and on the wearable art movement in the U.S.

Liddell, Jill. The Story of the Kimono. E.P. Dutton, 1989.

Milhaupt, Terry Satsuki. Kimono: A Modern History. Reaktion Books, 2014.

Minnich, Helen Benton (in collaboration with Shojiro Nomura) Japanese Costume and the Makers of Its Elegant Tradition. Rutland: C.E. Tuttle, 1963.

Munsterberg, Hugo. The Japanese Kimono. Oxford University Press, 1996. (Images of Asia)
small book, ca. 8x 5 inches, 74 p.

Noma, Seiroku. Japanese Costume and Textile Arts (Kosode to No Isho). Weatherhill/Heibonsha, 1974. (Survey of Japanese Art v.16).

Nomura, Shojiro and Tsutomu Ema. Japanese Kimono Designs. Dover, 2006.

Sibbet, Ed. Japanese Prints coloring book. Dover, 1982.
Based on Ukiyo-e prints dating from 1714 to 1857 including Utamaro, Hokusai, and Hiroshige.

Stinchecum, Amanda. Kosode: 16-19th Century Textiles From the Nomura Collection. Japan Society, Kodansha, 1984.

Till, Barry and Paula Swart. Kesa: the Elegance of Japanese Monks' Robes. Art Gallery of Greater Victoria, 1996.

Ukiyo-e: 250 Years of Japanese Art. Neuer, Roni [et al.] Mayflower Books, 1981.
Reproductions of woodblock prints from the Edo/Tokugawa era.

Yamanaka, Norio. The Book of Kimono. Kodansha, 1986.
Demonstrates how the kimono is put on from the skin up, how to tie obi, how to put on hakama.

Yang, Sunny and Rochelle M. Narasin. Textile Art of Japan. Shufunomoto, 1989.
Includes some modern clothing and interior designs using traditional textiles.

Yumioka, Katsumi. Kimono and the Colors of Japan: Kimono Collection of Katsumi Yumioka. Tokyo: Pie Books, 2005.
In Japanese and English. 240 p. of gorgeous illustrations. Total eye-candy.


Arts of Asia: March-April 1991.
“A Textile Treasury in the Seattle Art Museum” William Jay Rathbun. pp 106-115.
Ainu and folk garments.

Arts of Asia: August 2006.
"Evolution of the Japanese Haori" Terry Warth.
"Obi Zuan: Japan’s Unseen Paintings" George R Godoy.
"Wrapping-cloth of Korea in the Choson Dynasty" Youong-Jae Lee.


Search “Geisha” on Youtube.

Aihara, Kyoko. GEISHA: A Living Tradition. London: Carlton Books, 1999.

Dalby, Liza Crihfield. Geisha. Vintage Books, 1985.
Story of Dalby's life as a geisha/anthropologist in Kyoto.

Fictionalized into a 1986 TV movie "American Geisha" with Pam Dawber as “Gillian Burke.”
Filmed in Kyoto and Tokyo. It got bad reviews, but I liked it. Wish I could find it to buy/download.

Geisha Blues (DVD). Running time: 30 min.
Geisha songs, with “evocative images and text in both English and Japanese.”

GEISHA: Beyond the Painted Smile. Peabody Essex Museum, 2004.
Essays by Liza Dalby and others.

Memoirs of a Geisha (DVD). Running time 145 mins. Directed by Rob Marshall; written by Arthur Golden and Robin Swicord. Starring Ziyi Zhang, Ken Watanabe, Michelle Yeoh, Gong Li.
Many of us found it disappointing that they cast Chinese actresses in the lead roles. Beautiful ladies but they aren’t Japanese. Wish they could have found real Geisha! But it’s totally worth seeing for the beautiful sets and costumes by Colleen Atwood. And it’s only $6 on Amazon!

Non-fiction books but no pictures

Iwasaki, Mineko. Geisha, A Life. Atria Books 2002

Iwasaki, Mineko. Geisha of Gion:The True Story of Japan's Foremost Geisha. Simon & Schuster, 2002.

Masuda, Sayo. Autobiography of a Geisha. Trans. by G. G. Rowley. Columbia University Press, 2003.


Arimatsu-Narumi Shibori: Celebrating 400 Years of Japanese Artisan Design (DVD). running time: 155 minutes.
Filmed in Arimatsu and Narumi, Japan. Japanese, Spanish and English Sub-titles. Narration by Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada

Beyond the Tanabata Bridge: Traditional Japanese Textiles. William Jay Rathbun, ed. Thames and Hudson, 1993.
Folk textiles, kasuri, sashiko, etc.

Brandon, Reiko Mochinaga and Barbara B. Stephan. Spirit and Symbol: The Japanese New Year. Honolulu Academy of Arts, 1994

Gonick, Gloria Granz. Matsuri!: Japanese Festival Arts. Los Angeles, CA : UCLA, Fowler, 2003. (Fowler Museum Textile Series) (Book 6)

Jackson, Anna. Japanese Country Textiles. Weatherhill, 1997. (Victoria & Albert Museum. Far Eastern Series)

Katoh, Amy Sylvester. Japan the Art of Living. Tuttle, 1990.

Japan Country Living. Tuttle, 1993.

Japanese Folk Textiles: An American Collection. Japan: Shikosha, 1988.
In English and Japanese. Introduction by Fifi White. Book is based on Fifi's extensive textile collection. She was the co-founder of Asiatica and their designer for many years.

Kawakami, Barbara F. Japanese Immigrant Clothing In Hawai'i 1885-1941. Honolulu, U. Hawaii Press, 1993.

Textured Lives: Stories from the Plantations of Hawai‘i (DVD). Running time: 50 min.
Exhibit of “Japanese immigrant clothing from the plantations of Hawaii” at the Japanese American National Museum in Los Angeles. Feb 27-May 30, 2010. Textured Lives: Stories from the Plantations of Hawai‘i (DVD)

Milgram, Lynne. Narratives in Cloth: Embroidered Textiles from Aomori, Japan: from the collection of the Keiko Kan Museum Foundation. Toronto Museum for Textiles, 1993.
The embroidery in the title is sashiko.

Mingei: Two Centuries of Japanese Folk Art. Tokyo: Japan Folk Crafts Museum, 1995. Exhibition catalogue.

Moes, Robert. Mingei: Japanese Folk Art from the Brooklyn Museum Collection. Universe Books, 1985.

Picture Bride (DVD). Running time: 95 min. Directed by Kayo Hatta. Written by Kayo Hatta, Mari Hatta and Diane Mei Lin Mark.
In the early 20th century, thousands of young Japanese women went to Hawaii as picture brides. The film is inspired by their stories. Picture Bride (DVD)

Takeda, Sharon Sadako and Luke Roberts. Japanese Fishermen's Coats From Awaji Island. Los Angeles, CA : UCLA, Fowler, 2001. (Fowler Museum of Cultural History Textile Series; Book 5)

Yoshida, Shin-ichiro and Dai Williams. Riches From Rags: Saki-ori & Other Recycling Traditions in Japanese Rural Clothing. San Francisco Craft & Folk Art Museum, 1994.


Buisson, Dominique. The Art of Japanese Paper. Paris: Terrail, 1992.

Carved Paper: the Art of the Japanese Stencil. Susan Shin-Tsu Tai, ed. Santa Barbara Museum of Art and Weatherhill, Inc., 1998.
Exhibition catalog.

Dobson, Jenni. Making Kimono & Japanese Clothes. London: Batsford, 2004.
Very useful, good color illustrations and diagrams for making patterns. Goes well with John Marshall’s book.

Haigh, Janet. Japanese Inspirations: 18 Quilted Projects. That Patchwork Place, 2000.

Marshall, John. Make Your Own Japanese Clothes: Patterns and Ideas for Modern Wear. Kodansha, 1988.
Includes kimono, mompei, haori, even tabi.

Piecework Magazine. Sept./Oct. 1994.
Special issue devoted to indigo textiles. Several articles on traditional Japanese dying; Lucy Arai tutorial on sashiko.

Pippen, Kitty. Quilting with Japanese Fabrics. 3rd ed. Martingale, 2011

Wada, Yoshiko, Mary Kellogg Rice, and Jane Barton. Shibori, the Inventive Art of Japanese Shaped Resist Dyeing. Kodansha, c1983.
This is THE book if you have any interest in Japanese textiles or resist-dyeing of any kind.

Wada, Yoshiko. Memory on Cloth: Shibori Now. Kodansha, 2002.
Almost 20 years after the seminal Shibori book, a new book by this well-known artist and scholar. You NEED this book.


Bottomley, Ian. Arms & Armor of the Samurai: the History of Weaponry in Ancient Japan. Crescent Books, 1988. 192 p.

The Last Samurai. Warner Bros., 2003; Warner Home Video DVD Release Date: November 3, 2009
Yes, it’s Tom Cruise, but it’s also Ken Watanabe and others. Wonderful costumes by Ngila Dickson. In the scene between Katsumoto and the Emperor, there are court ladies in the background. (Very cheap on Amazon)

The Last Samurai. Roundtable Press, copyright Warner Bros., 2003.
Paperback of the movie. Lots of pictures, not much text.

Maruyama, Nobuhiko. Clothes of Samurai Warriors. Kyoto Shoin, 1993.In Japanese and English. Small book, 8.5 x6 inches, 96 pages Lots of b/w and color ill. of historic samurai garb.

Sun, Ming-ju. Japanese Warrior Costumes paper dolls. Dover, 2000.
Samurai paper dolls with 16 authentic, full-color costumes.


Bugaku Treasures fom the Kasuga Shrine. Los Angeles, 1984. Exhibit in Los Angeles and MFA Boston.
“Japanese Bugaku robes, masks and musical intruments from the Collection of the Kasuga Shrine, Nara, Japan.”

Sculpture in Silk: Costumes from Japan's Noh Theater. New York: Art Capital Group, 2003. 88 pages, full color, exhibition catalogue.
Includes photos showing an actor being dressed, step by step.

Shaver, Ruth. Kabuki Costume. Tuttle, 1990.
Great book, but if you can find the 1st edition (1966), the illustration print quality is much better.

Sun, Ming-ju. Kabuki Costumes paper dolls. Dover, 1995. 16 p.

Takeda, Sharon Sadako. Miracles & Mischief: Noh and Kyogen Theater In Japan. LACMA, 2002.


Allert, Kathy Japanese Girl and Boy Paper Dolls. Dover, 1991.
Too cute. Children in various traditional costumes.

Kolluri, Alina M. Kimono Girls: a Paper Doll Cut-out Book. Tampa: Friends for Keeps, 2001.

Sun, Ming-ju. Japanese Family Sticker Paper Dolls. Dover, 1998.

Japanese Kimono Paper Dolls in Full Color. Dover, 1986.
Inspired by 18th and 19th century woodblock prints, includes “26 exquisite costumes”

Traditional Japanese Fashions Paper Dolls. Dover, 2003.
Adult female fashions ranging from the Heian juni-hitoe to a modern bride.


Japanese Prints coloring book. Sibbett, Ed. Dover, 1982.

Coloring Book of Japan. Santa Barbara: Bellerophon Books, c1971.

Green, John. Life In Old Japan coloring book. Dover, 1994.
Black and white drawings, probably based on paintings and prints from the Edo period (ca 1600-1857)

Sibbet, Ed. Japanese Prints coloring book. Dover, 1982.
Based on Ukiyo-e prints dating from 1714 to 1857 including Utamaro, Hokusai, and Hiroshige.

© 2016 Susan Fatemi